![]() ![]() The wet-transfer Decal Paper is a very good idea. I hope I have provided you with some useful information. Also they make mention that they can be contacted if you have any "special" needs.so, who knows - perhaps they would produce a custom dial scale if they were provided with the necessary art work. I have heard that their quality is high and that they use epoxy based inks for the graphics. ![]() ![]() Also, they only produce FLAT dial scales. They have an extensive listing of approximately 200 radio models that they produce scales for. Unfortunately, at this time they only make glass dial scales for American made radios. There is a company here in the USA that makes and sells glass dial scales. The main point of your response however pertained to GLASS dials that have "painted on" or silkscreened graphics. I can provide examples and more information about this process if you like. While the ink is still wet a white powder is applied and then heated with a heat gun. This process uses clear wet-transfer decal paper. I, myself, have had success creating white "raised-letter" decals to apply to radio cases, dial rings etc. It also lighted from behind with good results. In the example shown in the weblink I provided, the author required a scale that had no white areas on it so he was able to replicate an acceptable dial scale.then by laminating it with clear plastic it took on the appearance of a "factory-original" dial scale. WHITE wet-transfer paper is now available from However, if WHITE wet-transfer paper is used the result will indeed be bright white or light-colored areas where desired. Any white coloring in the graphics will simply result in a clear area on a typical sheet of wet-transfer "paper". I think though, that this is pertinent only when trying to create a wet-transfer decal. They look like new panels.I have seen one or two cases where people carefully masked the lettering before painting.not too rewarding to look at closely but all depends on your liking.There are replacement decals for some, seems more for the old wood receivers than for communications receivers.Once before I bought the new front panel, I laboriously found typefaces and reproduced all the SX-71 markings in WORD in the correct size, they looked great printed out, and searched for a way to make my own white decals, maybe there is a better way now, that was ten years ago.As an aside, I was grateful to the National Radio designers for my recent NC-2 40D all the markings are on removable stainless steel circles you just take everything off, paint the cabinet, and put everything back on and you have a new looking receiver.Maybe somebody has some S-40 decals, good luck.You are correct about the inability of ink-jet printers to render a white color. I had an SX-71 and an SX-43 done, I forget who did it. Well.that is the really hard part isn't it?Some people silk screen new front panels for you. I have done a few searches and found one or two sources for decals, but, I would like to hear from people who have used them.Are there "better" providers of these decals? Any particular types to avoid?Any tips or guides to relettering? Web pages with good info?Thanks a bunch,T!. But, what about the lettering on the case? If I am going to repaint I will need to reletter. Since I have a couple of them setting around, one complete but rough and one fairly nice, I decided I would start with a Hallicrafters S-40B.Now, I can see where doing the most of it is pretty straight forward. Mostly because I did not want to do the exterior.The time has come for me to do a few. #Supercal decal fullMy wife is very supportive of this, in fact she has brought home more "just because" rigs than I have, finding them at rummage sales and such and not really looking at them, just knowing I am gonna need them.lolWhile I have done what might be called electronic restos on several radios in the past, I have never done a full resto, bringing back a junk radio to usable/looking good condition. Lately I have picked up several in not so good condition, just because they were there. In general I have always tried to pick up rigs in good condition and keep them that way. I have owned boatanchors most of my life, at least since the late 60's / early 70's. ![]()
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